February 27, 2015
When buying or examining jewelry, oftentimes there are a lot of markings on the back of the pieces. To help you understand these important stamps or jewelry hallmarks– and understand which metals are fine, pure, and worth the higher price tag– we outlined the most frequently used hallmarks.
What is the difference between carat and karat?
To clarify two frequently used terms: a carat refers to the weight of a stone and is used to describe diamonds or gemstones. A carat equals 200 milligrams.
A karat, meanwhile, is a unit measuring the purity of gold. Gold jewelry is most commonly an alloy metal or a mixture of pure gold and a second, bonding metal. While 24 karat or 24K gold is pure gold, 18 karat gold is 18 parts gold, 6 parts alloy metal—or, differently said, 75% pure gold.
These numbers, especially karats, are important to understand when examining jewelry for authenticity and to recognize the specifications of your jewelry. On most quality jewelry, the specifications of your jewelry (like gold karat) will appear as a hallmark, or a stamp (or several) on the back or underside of the piece. Hallmarks connote the purity or fineness of the precious metals.
Common Gold Jewelry Hallmarks
Pure gold is 24 karats and is stamped as 999 to indicate its higher gold to alloy ratio. As we move down the scale of gold purity, 20 karat gold is stamped as 833 to represent the 20:24 (or .833) gold to alloy ratio. To simplify the other commonly used gold hallmarks, here is a handy chart of the caratage hallmarks and the gold purity they correspond to:
Common Platinum Jewelry Hallmarks
Just like gold, platinum is measured by its fineness. But, unlike gold, platinum is not measured in karats. Instead, it is measured by its purity percentage. The fineness hallmarks for platinum are as follows:
Common Silver Jewelry Hallmarks
While silver is pure, sterling silver is an alloy of pure silver and another metal. Therefore when it comes to silver hallmarks, silver is measured by its fineness and marked accordingly. One sterling silver hallmark of particular note is the 925 stamp used by Tiffany & Co.; if this 925 mark is not included on your alleged Tiffany & Co. jewelry, it’s an immediate indication the item is fake. Here is a breakdown of the other common silver hallmarks:
As an expert in the field of jewelry and precious metals, I bring a wealth of firsthand knowledge and a deep understanding of the intricacies involved in the evaluation and authentication of jewelry. My expertise extends to the various hallmarks and markings found on jewelry pieces, serving as crucial indicators of authenticity, quality, and material composition.
In the realm of precious metals, the distinction between carat and karat is fundamental. Carat, commonly associated with gemstones, denotes the weight of a stone, with one carat equivalent to 200 milligrams. On the other hand, karat is a unit measuring the purity of gold. While 24 karat gold represents pure gold, lower karat values indicate a mixture with alloy metals. For instance, 18 karat gold comprises 18 parts gold and 6 parts alloy, amounting to 75% pure gold. Understanding these distinctions is paramount when evaluating the quality and value of gold jewelry.
The significance of hallmarks in the authentication process cannot be overstated. On quality jewelry, these markings convey essential information such as gold karat, serving as a tangible assurance of authenticity. Pure gold, for instance, is designated as 24 karats and stamped as 999 to signify its high gold to alloy ratio. The presence of these hallmarks is a crucial aspect of recognizing the specifications of jewelry.
Platinum, another precious metal, is measured by its fineness rather than karats. Unlike gold, platinum is expressed as a percentage of purity. Familiarity with platinum fineness hallmarks is essential for accurately assessing the quality of platinum jewelry.
The landscape of silver jewelry is marked by distinctions between pure silver and sterling silver, which is an alloy of pure silver and another metal. Silver hallmarks reflect the fineness of the metal and play a pivotal role in identifying authenticity. For instance, the 925 stamp is a notable hallmark used by Tiffany & Co. for sterling silver, and its absence may indicate a counterfeit item.
In summary, my comprehensive knowledge encompasses the nuances of jewelry hallmarks, the distinctions between carat and karat, and the intricacies of evaluating gold, platinum, and silver jewelry for authenticity and quality. This expertise positions me to guide you through the intricate world of precious metals and jewelry assessment with confidence and precision.
