Beautiful landscaping is a joy to behold. Unfortunately, the upkeep isn’t always easy. Unfortunately, a gorgeous, well-kept lawn and garden aren’t always easy to achieve. There are many things that can sabotage your efforts including pests that could destroy your garden, and grasses and plants could die if improperly planted. All in all, taking care of a lawn or garden can become a high-maintenance task and cost a lot in terms of money and time.
If you want an attractive yard minus the hassle, consider planting some ornamental grass. These grasses require very little maintenance and less watering than most plants. They also look gorgeous, blooming into various colors and textures and growing in clumps or mounds. Additionally, they prevent soil erosion and provide windbreaks on your property. This guide will introduce you to the most popular, low-maintenance varieties and how to take care of them so that they thrive with very little help.
What To Know About Buying Ornamental Grass
How your grasses look in full bloom is important to consider when choosing ornamental grass. However, here are some other essential factors to consider when purchasing ornamental grasses.
Height
Some ornamental grasses only grow a few inches, while others can extend up to 15 feet. Tall grasses can be advantageous if you are looking for extra privacy between you and your neighbor’s yard or a little more shade. Whatever your reason is for growing ornamental grass, make sure that you consider its potential height in the decision-making.
Cool or Warm Season
When selecting ornamental grass, it’s good to keep in mind the climate you live in. Cool-season grasses thrive in environments where temperatures are usually between 60 to 75 degrees. In comparison, warm-season grasses do well where it’s between 80 to 95 degrees. So if you live in the northern part of the U.S., select ornamental grasses that are categorized as cool-season grasses and vice versa if you live in the southern half of the U.S.
Hardiness Zone
Another factor to keep in mind when choosing ornamental grass is its hardiness zone. There are 13 hardiness zones in the U.S. which represent the temperature at which these grasses can grow. Zone 1 is a very cold region while Zone 13 is a very hot region. As with warm or cold season classification, hardiness zones help you to determine if the ornamental grass will grow well in your area.
Soil Type
One great thing about ornamental grasses is that they don’t have to rely on extremely fertile soil to grow. Most like to grow in slightly moist, well-drained soil. Some may even thrive in clay or rocky soil. When buying ornamental grass, the tag will let you know the type of soil for your choice of grass.
If you want to learn all about ornamental grasses, the best way to get started is to become familiar with some of the most common ones which don’t require much upkeep. Below are some no-fuss options that range from a few inches to several feet.
Black Mondo
Ophiopogon planiscapus, known as Black Mondo, grows in a hardiness zone of five to ten. Black mondo grows in compact mounds and spreads about two feet. The foliage is a rich dark violet but grows blossoms that vary in color from lavender to pinkish-white. It is a perennial that thrives in medium-moist soil. It can grow in full sun or shade, and it is an evergreen.
Height: 6 to 12 inches
Color: Blackish-violet
Cool or Warm Season Grass: Warm
Blue Fescue
iStock
For a grass that grows in a hardiness zone of four to eight, festuca glauca, more commonly known as blue fescue is the way to go. It forms in very tight small mounds and doesn’t spread quickly. The color of the grass changes from light blue-silver early in the season and turns to blue-green in the summer. In fall, it turns darker, mottled green. In mild climates, it remains evergreen but turns brown during harsh winters. Since it is very drought-resistant, it can thrive in areas with very little water, such as a rock garden. It is a perennial that thrives in the sun and is semi-evergreen.
Height: 6 to 12 inches
Color: Color variation from green to blue-green annually
Cool or Warm Season: Cool
Lilyturf
An ornamental grass that is at home in a hardiness zone of four to ten is liriope muscari, more commonly known as lilyturf. It grows in clumps and spreads wide quickly. While its color is mostly green, its flower is purple violet. It thrives in full sun or shade. It is a perennial that likes moist, well-drained soil. It can be evergreen.
Height: 6 to 12 inches
Color: Green
Cool or Warm Season: Warm
Japanese Forest Grass
iStock
Japanese Forest Grass is scientifically known as hakonechloa macra and grows in a hardiness zone of four to five. It grows in cascading clumps that spreads wide. Its color is primarily yellow-gold but if it is grown in the shade, it tends to be a lime green color. It thrives in moist, well-drained soil. It is semi-evergreen and a perennial. It will tolerate both full sun and full shade.
Height: 12 to 28 inches
Color: Yellow-gold
Cool or Warm Season: Cool
Purple Fountain
Pennisetum setaceum rubrum, also referred to as purple fountain, grows best in a hardiness zone of nine and ten. This ornamental grass tends to grow in clumps and spreads wide. Its plumes are burgundy red and arch outward from the clump. Purple fountain grass thrives in tropical areas and is drought-tolerant. It is perennial and evergreen. It needs about six hours of sun and can tolerate shade for about four hours.
Miscanthus sinensis is a good choice for a hardiness zone of five to nine. This grass grows best in places that regularly get six to eight hours of sun. Zebra grass tends to grow in clumps and spreads pretty wide. The blades of arching grass are green with outer edges of yellow. This grass type flourishes in very moist soil but can withstand some levels of drought. It is perennial and deciduous.
Height: 5 to 8 feet
Color: Striped green and yellow
Cool or Warm Season Grass: Warm
Caring for Ornamental Grass
Although ornamental grasses eventually grow to become a plant that doesn’t require much water, they are very hydrophilic at first. So, when you plant them, you will need to water them every other day. After they have become established, water them twice a week. After a year, your ornamental grass will get along just fine on the moisture from rainfall. Though, if your area is experiencing minimal rain, it’s a good idea to water your ornamental grass every three weeks.
When it comes to fertilizers, ornamental grasses don’t need much. There are a few that won’t need fertilizers at all, such as fine and hard fescues or purple fountain grasses. You will only need to fertilize most other grasses in the spring with a slow-release fertilizer that includes rotted manure, mushroom compost, and leaf mold.
When to cut back ornamental grass
In late winter or early spring, it’s smart to take the time to cut back your ornamental grass. This means you will prune the brown parts of the plant that have grown throughout winter. Failing to do so will cause the new green growth to grow with the brown grass, which can eventually cause the plant to die. Cutting back the brown portions of the plant gets rid of the old and makes way for the new so that your grass can continue to grow and thrive another year.
After a few years, you may notice that your ornamental grass is getting too big for its location and starting to die near the center. This indicates that it is time to divide the grass. Like cutting back grass, it’s a good idea to do this in the late winter or early spring before the grass starts to grow. After cutting back the grass, take an ax or hacksaw and divide the plant into smaller sections. Carefully dig out one part and move it to a new location while keeping the other part in the exact location. This will allow the plant to have more room to grow for many years to come.
Protect Ornamental Grass
One of the reasons most people choose ornamental grasses is because they are naturally resistant to pests. Therefore, you won’t need to use pesticides to keep pests at bay.
However, there are a few pests that will wreak havoc on ornamental grass. It depends on what part of the country you reside in which pests will attack your grass. For instance, in Georgia, lace bugs love ornamental grasses. They chew through the leaves and drain the chlorophyll from them, eventually destroying the plant’s health. A few other insects that love ornamental grass are aphids and mites. Aphids suck the sap out of these plants, while mites suck the juice out of the blades. Soapy insecticides can rid the plant of pests. Just be sure to select ones that don’t kill beneficial bugs.
Another threat to your ornamental grasses is disease. Two diseases common with ornamental grass are powdery mildew and rust. Powdery mildew looks like a coating of dust on your plants and can cause them to start thinning. Like rust formed on iron, rust on ornamental grass has a reddish color. Grass affected by rust will turn wilt and turn brown.
Keeping ornamental grass healthy as possible will prevent conditions in which pests and diseases grow. However, if your plants become infested, fungicides and pesticides can keep them at bay. When choosing sprays, select ones that don’t kill beneficial bugs.
Common Questions About Ornamental Grasses
Ornamental grasses are easy plants to grow and maintain in your yard or garden. But here are answers to common questions you may have about ornamental grasses.
Are perennials and ornamental grass the same?
Perennials are a type of ornamental grass. Another type of ornamental grass is annual. Perennials live for two or more years, while annuals live only one year, as the name implies.
Does ornamental grass require a lot of maintenance?
Ornamental grass is drought-resistant, so you don’t have to water it much, and most pests don’t find it appetizing. You only have to cut them back occasionally to eliminate the brown grass and keep it from dying. Additionally, you will have to divide it every few years.
What’s the best soil for planting ornamental grass?
Ornamental grass thrives in slightly moist, well-drained soil, but some species thrive in clay or very damp conditions. There are even some that can thrive in arid conditions. The species you choose should include details of how to plant and care for it.
Most grasses do best in sun but some will tolerate shade. Make sure you're growing the right grass for the right spot. Cut back deciduous grasses in spring and 'comb out' dead leaves of evergreen types.Divide congested clumps in spring.
A balanced 10-10-10 fertilizer is best, follow manufacturer's instructions. Your new Ornamental Grass will require little feeding to thrive and prosper in your garden.
Ornamental grasses tolerate a wide range of conditions, but most like an open, sunny position in light, moist but free-draining, moderately fertile soil. Grasses also thrive in large containers.
Ornamental grass care for container gardens includes raking or pulling out the dead blades. Some grasses will die back in cold weather, which is signaled by all the blades becoming brown. You can leave them until late winter to early spring and then cut them back to a couple of inches (5 cm.)above the crown.
Except for the water-loving varieties, most ornamental grasses won't need extra water once they've become established. Water every other day after planting, gradually extending the time between watering.After 2 or 3 weeks, watering twice a week should be plenty.
If you leave the trimming until spring try to make sure to cut them back to the ground (you can leave a couple of inches) by late spring, before new growth begins. Not all ornamental grasses look good through the winter, trim back those that don't look good in the fall.
Almost all grasses require little or NO fertilizer. Container plants should be fertilized occasionally because daily watering leaches out nutrients. Either slow release fertilizers (like Osmocote) or foliar feeding fertilizer (like Miracle Gro) work well.
If you don't cut back your ornamental grasses, they not only might look untidy with depreciated foliage, but they also might spread their seeds in unwanted areas. Plus, fresh foliage in the spring might have a difficult time growing through the depreciated foliage.
Most ornamental grasses need no watering in winter, unless they are cool-season or evergreen grasses. Avoid overwatering ornamental grass, especially in fall and winter. Cut back on drip watering during rainy periods. If you are overwintering an ornamental grass in a pot, water those that are dormant sparingly.
Instructions regarding the feeding of ornamental grasses are really very simple - don't do it. Well, actually that is a bit of an exageration, but grasses actually prefer to be grown on the lean side. They will be sturdier without the addition of the high-powered nutrients.
You should cut the grass 6-10 inches off the ground. We recommend using gloves, and in some case eye protection. Some grasses can have sharp edges, so some people will also wear long sleeved shirts to protect their arms.
Warm-season grasses that are taller than three feet should be cut back to four to six inches from ground level. Shorter mature plants can be cut back to about three inches. Prune cool-season grasses back by two-thirds.
Most ornamental grasses are perennials, living for two or more years. Annual grasses live for only one growing season because of their natural growth habit or they are not hardy in our climate. Grasses have growth habits that are either clumping or spreading.
The best time to soak or drip irrigate is a cool evening when the soil has all night to absorb the water. Use a sprinkler in early morning to prevent rapid evaporation. The worst time to water is mid day, 11 a.m. to 3 p.m., on a sunny day.
Overwatering – allow time for the soil to dry between waterings. Too much fertilizer – instead of using chemicals, a fertilizer like Azomite that has trace minerals and vitamins, along with seaweed and kelp can help. Plants that are in pots – if the grass is root-bound, it can't absorb water from the soil easily.
While most ornamental grasses prefer and do best in full sun locations, there are a number of grasses and grass-like plants that will provide interest to shaded areas n the garden.
Burning it in fall would destroy the winter interest the grass contributes and open the plant up to winter injury. Do not burn cool-season grasses, such as fescues and heliotrichons, which are semi-evergreen. Remove their dead or damaged foliage by cutting it or gently raking it out.
Cutting the grasses back to a few inches above the soil line helps insulate the roots, and provides a bit of interest in the beds until spring. Once cut, the dead plant material is a great source of material to add to your compost pile.
Just as the aroma and caffeine of a cup of Joe in the morning stimulates many of us, using coffee ground on grass can also stimulate healthier turf. It isn't the caffeine that stimulates healthy grass growth, but rather the nitrogen, phosphorus and trace minerals that coffee grounds contain.
Choose continuous-release plant granules, like Miracle-Gro® Shake 'n Feed® All Purpose Plant Food, for less frequent feeding. Sprinkle the easy-to-use, dry granules onto the soil surface, gently rake them into the top few inches of soil, then water thoroughly to start the feeding process.
Growing conditions: Most types of ornamental grass require well-drained soil, and the roots may rot in soggy, poorly drained conditions. Rot can be a big reason why ornamental grass turns yellow and dies.
Even if a grass becomes too large during the growing season, they can be pruned for shape. Simple shear off a bit of top growth as needed. Ornamental Grass Care Tips -Grasses can be cut back nearly anytime from fall to spring. Even better, they require little to no fertilization.
Unlike the tidy growth habit of clump-forming grasses, ornamental grasses that increase by rhizomes will spread, or run, throughout a garden bed and can quickly take over.
Different living conditions and light exposure are required for ornamental grasses. Many sedges and tufted hairgrass, for example, prefer partial shade, whereas June grass and Northern sea oats prefer full shade. However, there are a few types of grass that flourish in full sun.
Should I Mulch My Ornamental Grass Plants? Yes, applying 1 to 2 inches of mulch a bit farther out than the root zone extends when planting is a great option to keep weeds at bay as well as reduce watering needs by allowing the soil to better retain moisture.
The most common cause of ornamental grasses falling over is too much nitrogen in the soil. If you have a habit of fertilizing your ornamental plants on a regular basis, you'll be causing the problem you're trying to avoid.
All forms of deciduous grass are best cut back in the spring, about March depending on the weather; ideally just as the new shoots are coming through. Just like lawns cutting new growths along with the old will not harm the plant.
Each one has slightly different rules regarding when and how to cut them back. Here are some tips to keep in mind: Cut back warm-season grasses in fall, or any time before mid-spring: If you enjoy a tidy winter garden, trim warm-season ornamental grasses in the fall.
A: Usually, you will see small new shoots on your ornamental grasses some time between early May and early June. They may seem sparse at first. This year the early spring was quite dry and the whole spring has been cooler than normal, so many ornamental grasses are just beginning (or about to begin) to show growth.
Switchgrass: Panicum virgatum This hardy perennial grass prefers full sun and moderate to moist soil. It is a warm season grass. Switchgrass grows to 3 to 6 feet tall with stiff upright clumps and showy, airy flowers of pink, red or silver in midsummer. Will tolerate soil quality extremes.
Be sure to plant Maiden Grass in plenty of sun- they tend to become floppy if they receive too much shade. One of my favorites is 'Morning Light' because of its variegated leaves and graceful shape.
Pink muhly grass is one of the easiest ornamental grasses to care for. This taller plant grows to about three feet and makes an interesting display, especially near the end of summer. As the season draws to a close, the deep green leaves produce soft pink flowers that give off a fuzzy appearance.
Some people prefer to cut these grasses back in the fall, as they don't care for the floppy look throughout the winter, but the foliage actually helps to insulate the crown of the plant. Thus, we recommend you wait until late winter or very early spring to cut them down.
They will be sturdier without the addition of the high-powered nutrients. You may think that fertilizers such as are used on lawns would be appropriate for grasses however, tall-growing ornamental grasses will bolt for the sky and with such rapid growth will be unable to hold themselves up.
Composted coffee grounds are good for grass because they are high in nitrogen. Brewed grounds can contain quite a high amount of nitrogen in comparison to the plant matter around most residential yards.
Grasses do not need to be cut down before winter. In fact, they are attractive when left standing and the foliage helps to insulate the crown of the plant. Cut back the foliage to about 4-6 inches in the spring before growth resumes. When foliage is removed, spring growth will begin earlier.
Ornamental grasses are extremely hardy and require very little to sprout and grow again. To replant, simply dig a hole twice the size of the circumference and just below the depth of the transplant. Mix in a bit of compost to the planting hole, water, and cover so that the plant's crown is slightly below the soil line.
Ornamental grasses can grow up to 6 feet tall and up to 3 feet wide - as mentioned above, use shopping filters to find the right plants for your yard. Staking: Ornamental grasses grown in full sun without too much nitrogen fertilizer should be sturdy enough to stand tall on their own.
If you don't cut back your ornamental grasses, they not only might look untidy with depreciated foliage, but they also might spread their seeds in unwanted areas. Plus, fresh foliage in the spring might have a difficult time growing through the depreciated foliage.
Warm-season grasses that are taller than three feet should be cut back to four to six inches from ground level. Shorter mature plants can be cut back to about three inches. Prune cool-season grasses back by two-thirds.
Besides growing a healthier plant, cutting back ornamental grasses in spring encourages earlier growth. That's because the plant can spread out to let the crown to warm up faster. It's best to cut back grasses before they start growing. You don't want to shear off any new growth while you're cutting back the old.
When you see dead leaves, dormant stems, or brown parts of leaves, cut them away. It's fine to pluck dead leaves or stems with your hands when possible, just don't pull too hard, or you may damage the healthy part of your plant. For tougher stems or to remove brown leaf tips and edges, use scissors or pruning shears.
Once you start to address the plant leaves turning brown, your plant should start to grow new, healthy foliage. As for the leaves that still have brown tips, you can snip the dead parts away with a pair of scissors without hurting the plant.
It doesn't have to if you just leave cutting back your ornamental grass until spring! Many people cut back their clumps of ornamental native grasses as soon as they go dormant in the fall, or in early winter. Here at the nursery, we don't cut back anything until late February at the earliest.
A basic rule of ornamental grass maintenance is to leave them standing over winter, and don't mess with them until they are actively growing in early to late spring. Whether you are cutting back or dividing, it is generally best to wait until spring.
Can you get away with not cutting it at all? If you don't cut it, there are two things that will happen. First, the green will start growing through the brown while the old, dead leaves will start to rot away. However, this will also mean longer leaves that will be green from the top but brown at the bottom.
Introduction: My name is Chrissy Homenick, I am a tender, funny, determined, tender, glorious, fancy, enthusiastic person who loves writing and wants to share my knowledge and understanding with you.
We notice you're using an ad blocker
Without advertising income, we can't keep making this site awesome for you.
:no_upscale()/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/23652940/Blue_Fescue_iStock_1314331023.jpg "How to Care for Ornamental Grass (1)")
:no_upscale()/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/23652949/Japanese_Forest_Grass_iStock_1398700776.jpg "How to Care for Ornamental Grass (2)")
:no_upscale()/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/23652954/Zebra_iStock_172480916.jpg "How to Care for Ornamental Grass (3)")
