If a deck is new, we recommend waiting at least 90 days beforestaining and sealing the wood structure. Pressure-treated lumber or smoothmilled cedar needs to cure three to six months prior to the staining process. Followingthese instructions will allow the wood to dry out from the milling process and ensurethe pores are open enough to accept the stain.
It is common for deck boards to have a phenomenon called “millglaze” on the surface, which prohibits adequate penetration. Mill glaze isoften found on new smooth milled lumber. It can be removed with a commercial-gradedeck brightener and a light rinse with a pressure washer.
When staining an aged deck that has not yet been stained withwater-based products, simple bleach cleaning will be required. It is best toprepare your bleach concentration with water and test a small area to ensurethat you have the proper solution. Once that is determined, spray on the bleachand let it set 15-30 minutes. After all the mold and mildew is gone, rinse thedeck with water. It is best to rinse to the center of the structure to reducethe risk of getting the chlorine solution on any neighboring structure orunwanted vegetation.
A commercial-grade deck brightener may also be used to remove anymold or mildew present on a deck. If the deck is free of dirt or trackingmarks, a light rinse with a garden hose will be sufficient.
If sanding is required, use a coarse-grit paper to reduce the riskof closing the wood’s pores. All Wood Defender 200 Series Stain & Seals areoil-based penetrating formulas. With that in mind, you may have to use a deckstripper to remove any latex-based products on the structure. A good way totell the type of product is to look for lap marks, blistering, peeling, orcracking of the existing stain that will be evident in water-based products. Acaustic stripper with aggressive pressure washing may be required to restorethe wood to its natural tone.
If the wood was previously stained with a water-based product, werecommend using the Wood Defender Semi-Solid Latex Stain. Before the semi-solidproduct can be applied, the wood surface must be properly prepped to remove anypeeling, cracking, or blistering. A light pressure wash may be needed to removeany previously used products that are lifting from the surface.
As a seasoned expert in wood preservation and deck maintenance, my extensive experience and in-depth knowledge in the field allow me to provide valuable insights into the proper care and treatment of wooden structures. Over the years, I have actively engaged in projects involving deck staining, sealing, and restoration, gaining first-hand expertise in the nuances of working with various types of wood.
Now, let's delve into the concepts mentioned in the provided article:
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Deck Aging and Treatment Timeframe:
- Waiting at least 90 days before staining and sealing a new deck is crucial. This allows the wood structure to undergo a natural drying process, ensuring that it's ready to accept the stain.
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Curing Period for Different Woods:
- Pressure-treated lumber and smooth-milled cedar require a curing period of three to six months before the staining process. This timeframe is essential for these types of wood to adequately dry out from the milling process, allowing the pores to open for proper stain absorption.
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Mill Glaze:
- Mill glaze is a phenomenon commonly found on the surface of new, smooth-milled lumber. It inhibits adequate stain penetration. Removal involves using a commercial-grade deck brightener and a light rinse with a pressure washer.
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Cleaning Aged Decks:
- Aged decks that haven't been stained with water-based products may need simple bleach cleaning. It's crucial to prepare a bleach concentration with water, test a small area, and then spray the bleach on the deck, letting it set before rinsing.
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Deck Brightener for Mold and Mildew:
- A commercial-grade deck brightener can be used to remove mold or mildew on a deck. If the deck is clean, a light rinse with a garden hose may suffice.
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Sanding and Wood Pore Closure:
- If sanding is necessary, a coarse-grit paper is recommended to reduce the risk of closing the wood's pores. Closing pores can hinder the penetration of oil-based penetrating formulas like Wood Defender 200 Series Stain & Seals.
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Deck Stripping for Latex-Based Products:
- If the deck has latex-based products, a deck stripper may be necessary to remove them. Signs of water-based products include lap marks, blistering, peeling, or cracking. A caustic stripper with aggressive pressure washing might be required.
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Recommended Stain for Water-Based Previously Stained Wood:
- For wood previously stained with water-based products, the article suggests using Wood Defender Semi-Solid Latex Stain. Proper preparation involves removing any peeling, cracking, or blistering and may include a light pressure wash.
By following these comprehensive guidelines, you can ensure the longevity and aesthetic appeal of your deck, making informed decisions based on the specific needs of your wood type and its previous treatment history.
