One of the best things about linen fabric is its durability and long-lasting strength. But even the toughest fabric can tear, rip or get holes in. By mending holes and stitching up tears you’re prolonging your garment’s life, which is more sustainable than throwing them away. It is also possible to patch up your best-loved items without any noticeable repair, so they will look nearly as good as new.
Mending is trending!
Remember as a kid, sporting a colourful patch on your favourite jeans? Or wearing woolly socks that have been darned by careful hands? These are traditional craft skills that are hugely important if we are to live more sustainably.
Mending cafes and repair groups for technical goods and everyday appliances like lamps and toasters are increasingly popular. Now you can learn how to apply these same skills to clothing – from fixing your jeans pocket to covering a hole on a date-night shirt. Repairing garments needn’t look homespun – most of these techniques are either invisible or can be turned into a feature in themselves.
You don’t need to be an expert in sewing or repairing in order to mend fabric like linen, but you do need to follow these simple techniques to get the best results. In this post we’ll tell you how to: fix a seam with a loose hem, decide which are the best stitches for repairs and the choose ideal technique for different types of material.
Whether you’ve discovered a rip in your favourite cushion cover or want to patch up a hole in your essential summer shirt, here’s the lowdown on mending linen fabric for clothing and home textiles.
How to repair a hole or tear in linen fabrics
Depending on the size of hole or tear you need to mend, you have two options. One, patching; and two, sewing up the hole with hand stitches or a sewing machine. Patching torn clothing or textiles is also great if the fabric has worn thin around the hole and might tear in the future or looks threadbare.
Adding a patch
– Cut a patch from a similar-colorer fabric to the one with the tear, making sure it’s slightly larger than the hole you’re planning to mend.
– Iron your garment so the fabric lies completely flat, then turn it inside out or to the reverse side.
– Pin the patch over the tear, then stitch around the edges with the zig-zag stitch on your machine.
– Alternatively, you can make a decorative feature of the patch by stitching a contrasting fabric onto the right side over the holes.
Sewing up holes
– If you want your repair to be almost invisible, choose a thread in the same color as the fabric. If you want to highlight the repair, go for a complementary color, like pink on yellow or blue on tan. The thread should be the same thickness as the fabric – don’t choose a heavy embroidery thread for mending linen fabric as it will be too bulky. A lightweight cotton thread is suitable for repairs to holes in lighter weight material.
– Your needle will also need to be appropriate for the fabric you’re mending. Thicker garments like denim jeans, will need a robust, sharp needle. Thread with sufficient cotton to fix the hole or tear.
– Iron the item first. Begin sewing to the side of the hole, where the fabric is stronger. Pull the thread up from the wrong side of the cloth, but sew on the right side. Then carefully sew a running stitch across the tear. Once you’ve covered the hole, turn the garment 900 and go back over the stitches to reinforce the mend.
– To create a decorative mend on small holes, use embroidery thread and sew a star stitch.
How to repair a hem on clothing
It’s not only holes that you may need to mend. Sometimes a hem may come loose on the seam of a piece of clothing. This is simple to repair.
Iron the clothing first to secure the hem in place. Choose a matching thread so the repair and stitches will be invisible, then secure the thread just to the right of the loose hem seam.
Begin stitching in a blanket stitch until you get just past the loosened hem. If using a sewing machine, use the zig-zag or overlocking stitch. Fix the thread and trim.
Why is mending a good skill to learn?
- Learning a few basic mending skills will save you money and benefit the planet. If you know how to sew a button onto your dress or shirt, or can do a quick-fix for holes or tears, you can keep your clothes in use for longer. This reduces waste and avoids the need to replace items, all of which helps reduce our carbon footprint and landfill.
- Our grandmothers knew how to ‘make do and mend’, but as society has become flooded with more consumer goods and fast fashion has created clothing fads, we have come to treat our textiles as disposable. Not only does this cause waste, it also requires more resources to produce all the new garments we think we need. From darning socks to taking up the hem on a dress, there is much we can learn from older people who still have these skills.
- Instead of instantly discarding a dress or shirt because it has a hole, unthreaded hem or loose stitching on a button, try to fix it using the techniques we’ve outlined. Stitching can even be relaxing – sit down with a basket of mending in front of your favourite box set and it’ll be a satisfying way to spend an evening!
- If you have a sewing machine this can be a quick and easy way to rattle through fabric repairs. With a range of stitches and needle breadths, most fabrics can be repaired with patches and holes. We recommend that you iron the clothes or fabric before starting any repairs as this ensures the fabric lies flat.
- You can also reduce the amount you spend on clothing by repairing ripped or torn fabrics. Many garments have plenty of life left in them despite a small hole or tear, so it’s frugal as well as more sustainable to repair rather than replace.
Stitching for a fashion-fix
Patching and sewing can be really creative, allowing you to customize everything from a natural linen fabric dress or shirt pocket to a special tablecloth. Using bold, contrasting thread and stitching on the right side of a patch can create an eye-catching fashion statement and make a virtue of the fact that there’s a repair.
Style-makers know this is a way to appeal to both the fashion-conscious and those concerned with protecting the environment – it’s a real win-win!
Once a garment is really beyond repair, cut it into smaller pieces and use it as a simple solution to patch up a tear or hole on other clothing or fabric. Mixing fabrics can work well: for example, adding a lightweight cotton floral patch to a pair of jeans with ripped knees or using cloth patches and bold stitches to fix a woollen garment.
Material mending as heirloom gift
Got a box of baby clothes you can’t bear to part with? A really special thing to do with a treasured piece of baby clothing that’s past its best is to patch up any worn areas or stains and pass it on to another member of your family. If you can embroider, you could stitch the new baby’s name onto the patch, customizing the item.
If you have an old tablecloth that has been in your family for years but is suffering from wear and tear, sew up the holes or patch over any tears, and create a new story for the table. You could sew family members’ names into the cloth, or use fabric from other meaningful old garments to incorporate into the mending.
This will be a work of art you can pass on through generations, and that others can add to as the years go on. Choose a robust, durable fabric if you’re creating an heirloom piece, and make sure that the fabric you add as patches or stitching can be washed at the same temperatures as the original piece.
FAQs
Depending on the size of hole or tear you need to mend, you have two options. One, patching; and two, sewing up the hole with hand stitches or a sewing machine. Patching torn clothing or textiles is also great if the fabric has worn thin around the hole and might tear in the future or looks threadbare.
Why does linen tear easily? ›
Linen is actually one of the few fabrics that gets stronger when it is wet. Pure linen fibers don't stretch, and they are resistant to abrasion. However, because the fibers of linen fabric have such a low elasticity, they can break if they are folded and bent in the same area over and over.
How do you fix rough linen? ›
Use baking soda or vinegar. You may add ½ cup of baking soda or 1 small cup of vinegar to the wash. You can also soak linen in water mixed with vinegar. Do not overuse vinegar, use about 1 cup to 4 litres of water ratio.
Does fabric glue work on linen? ›
Bostik Fabric Glue is an ultra strong clear adhesive for fabric repairs and crafts. It's perfect for making long lasting, flexible bonds on porous fabrics such as cotton, denim, linen, felt, leather, PVC and much more, and can withstand machine-washing and ironing.
How hard is it to sew linen? ›
Actually, linen is easy to sew; it does not slip or stretch when you are cutting it out or sewing a seam. However, linen is prone to shrinking and to fraying, so special care must be taken when preparing it for layout and when finishing seams. Versatile natural linen comes in weights suitable for any project.
What is the best thread for linen? ›
Use cotton thread or cotton covered polyester thread for sewing linen. Seams, Seam Finishes, and Hems: Standard straight seams, medium length stitching (2.5) are good choices. You can also use French seams, fell seams, mock welt seams, and hemstitching if you so desire.
What is the best sewing machine setting for linen? ›
Set the machine stitch length at 2.5-3mm. Lightly balance the tension. Test stitch length and tension on a scrape of linen before beginning. Use lightweight or all purpose thread.
Why does baking soda soften linen? ›
The more water the better, as linen is highly absorbent and moisture absorption is key to the unique ability of linen to soften over time. Adding baking soda to every linen wash cycle will regulate the pH level in the rinse water and in turn soften the fabric.
Should you wash linen before sewing? ›
If you buy linen that hasn't been pre-washed, make sure you run it through a hot wash before you start working with it. Even if your finished garment will be cool-washed, it's good to use hot water for this first wash to ensure you reduce the chances of any further shrinkage.
What damages linen? ›
Friction from wiping and polishing can damage linen, wearing it out unnecessarily. Chemicals used for cleaning, as well as oil and water are also hazardous for linens, while using them to wipe down areas such as toilets and baths is unhygienic.
Use White Vinegar to Soften Linen Items
When machine washing your linen, replace the chemical fabric softener by adding a mixed solution of ½ cup of vinegar and ½ cup of water. Before washing, first, rinse the linen sheets in the washing machine adding only ½ cup of pure vinegar instead of washing powder.
What makes linen softer? ›
Unlike cotton, linen gets softer and softer with every wash, as the pectin that binds the fibers gently breaks down. Water alone will achieve this—there's no need for fancy fabric softeners. In fact, softeners may coat linen strands in a residue that affects their porousness.
How long does it take for linen to soften? ›
Soak and submerge the linen sheets in the tub with the dissolved baking soda for at least 24 hours (maximum of 48 hours) for the softening process to happen. After the waiting process, you can opt to let its line dry or machine wash them.
Can I use Gorilla Glue on fabric? ›
This permanent and washable glue from Gorilla is great for all your fabric craft projects. It is the perfect alternative to traditional hemming and can also be used to secure beads and other embellishments on your clothing and accessories.
Can I use fabric glue instead of sewing? ›
Q: Can I use fabric glue instead of sewing? A: Yes, you can use fabric glue instead of sewing in most cases. It can make the process much simpler and more time-efficient. But, this method is not suitable for fabric that is going to be ironed as the heat can cause issues with the glue.
Will hot glue hold fabric together? ›
Will hot glue hold fabric together? Hot glue can hold fabric very well since it has a rough surface. However, it may make your fabric rougher. Additionally, not all types of fabrics will react to different glues the same way.
What size sewing needle is best for linen? ›
Simply remember the basic rule of guiding, not pulling the fabric under the needle. For most of our linens, a size 80/12 or 90/14 'universal' needle will work best.
Does linen unravel when cut? ›
Because linen has such a loose weave, it unravels easily, so it's important to finish off all raw edges, such as side seams and hems. Finishing the edges will make the interior of your garment look tidy and keep the seams from unraveling, which prolongs the life of the garment.
Can you tear linen to cut it? ›
If possible tear the amount you need. Tearing generally ensures that you have got the fabric on grain - sometimes if your fabric is not great quality though, you will notice when you tear it that the grain is not straight.
How do you seal linen edges? ›
Glue your edges with fabric glue, seam sealant, or super glue. Purchase any one of these adhesives at a local craft store or online. Simply place small dabs of glue along the edge of the fabric. Use a cotton swab or toothpick to spread the glue evenly.
Absolutely. By trimming your scrap fabric edges with pinking shears instead of a traditional straight cut on the grain, you can drastically reduce damage to your fabric caused by fraying.
Does linen have a right and wrong side? ›
The right side of the fabric – also known as the face – must be pointed out before cutting. In some cases, identification can be done according to the way in which the fabric was folded, fabrics such as linen and cotton, for example, are folded facing outwards.
What is the best linen fabric in the world? ›
Belgian Linen is widely regarded as the highest quality linen fabric globally. Linen fabrics carrying the Belgian linen quality label contain a minimum of 85% European flax fibre and are woven in Belgium.
What is the best hand stitch for linen? ›
The Running Stitch
A running stitch that is done at 1 to 2mm in length is a reasonable stitch to sew a silk blouse, thin linen, or to attach a trim where more than one row of stitches is necessary. If you are using the running stitch for basting, a 4 to 5mm length is best used.
Can I sew linen with cotton thread? ›
Cotton Thread
This type of thread is softer than polyester and is a good choice for sewing on light fabrics, such as cotton or linen.
What stitch length for sewing linen? ›
The ideal stitch length should be between 2.5 to 3mm with 8 to 12 stitches per inch. Seam allowance: Be a little generous to provide ¼” seam allowance as linen fabric tends to unravel easily. You can serge the sides of each pattern piece before stitching.
Is linen hard to cross stitch on? ›
Linen has a higher thread count than Aida, so it gives a more refined look to your finished piece. Stitching on linen might seem daunting if you are new to cross stitch, but it is no more difficult than stitching on Aida. There are a few key differences, but they are easy to learn.
What are four steps in making linen fabric? ›
The manufacturing process of linen has several steps:
- Cultivation. Flax seeds need around 100 days to grow. ...
- Harvesting. The plants give several indications for the right time for harvesting in around 90 days. ...
- Retting. ...
- Breaking. ...
- Combing. ...
- Spinning. ...
- Reeling. ...
- Drying.
Linen works the same way as Aida, but the fabric counts are higher, typically anywhere from 22 stitches per inch to 40 stitches per inch. The difference is that linen is typically stitched over 2. That means, for example, 28-count linen will have 14 stitches per inch when stitched over 2.
Does linen stitch lay flat? ›
Linen stitch lays flat on its own with curling along the edges or the ends. Although linen stitch is not reversible, the back side of linen stitch is quite attractive and looks similar to seed stitch which makes it great for projects where you might see both sides like a scarf or cowl.
To iron your linen shirt, set your iron to a high heat setting, or to the cotton/linen setting if it has one, as linen traditionally requires a higher heat. While your iron is heating up, you can do either two things: dampen your linen shirt, or grab a separate cloth and dampen that.
Should you use fabric softener on linen? ›
Avoid detergent with added fabric softener, most fabric softeners available do not work on linen and can leave a residue, and NEVER use bleach on linen! No, not even for white linen. Bleach is linen's worst enemy, and can cause the fibre to rip or wear out much quicker.
Does thread count matter for linen? ›
Linen: 80-140. Thread count is less of a useful indicator for linen sheets and rarely listed. Avoid higher thread counts for linen sheets.
Can linen go in the dryer? ›
Natural linen fabric can safely go in the tumble dryer, as long as the care instructions indicate this is suitable on the garment. Use a medium heat to dry linen shirts, linen bedding or linen clothes. Too much heat can, again, cause shrinking or damage. Hang as soon as they are dry to prevent further wrinkling.
Does hot water soften linen? ›
With each washing, linen bed sheets become softer because they're washed in warm water with mild detergent or soap. Linens are made up of natural fibers that are woven together very tightly to create a durable material that holds up well over time.
Does steaming soften linen? ›
In order to remove wrinkles from sturdy linen clothes, it is important to soften the fabric first. For that - a lot of hot steam is required. Usually, a high-pressure steamer can only work the wrinkles out.
Should you hot or cold wash linen? ›
Machine Wash
Linen fabrics also should be washed in a separate load from other types of fabrics. When using a household or commercial washing machine, keep the water temperatures no hotter than lukewarm, and preferably cold. Hot water may cause linen fabric to shrink or may weaken the fibers.
Does linen always shrink when washed? ›
Yes linen will shrink naturally after its first wash. The average is around 4% shrinkage for pure linen. To prevent changes to the shape and size of clothing and textiles, many companies sell pre washed linen fabric. Thanks to this initial wash, the fabric will only have minimal shrinking when it's next washed.
Is it better to hand wash or dry clean linen? ›
Linen is made from flax fibers and is known for being cool and fresh in hot weather. If washed incorrectly, it can lose its crispness and clean finishing. Dry cleaning is often best for linen clothing.
What is the main disadvantage of linen? ›
Linen wrinkles easily. If you're looking for a fabric that will stay smooth and wrinkle-free, linen isn't the best choice. Linen is expensive. Compared to other fabrics, linen can be quite pricey.
They get reused by the hotel
You may have not thought of this, but some hotels reuse their old bed sheets. Recycling textiles is quite a sustainable and environment friendly solution. There are a lot of benefits to reusing the hotel's textiles.
What happens to linen when it gets wet? ›
When linen fabric becomes wet, the fibers relax. This causes the fibers to return to their original size, which causes the fabric to appear as though it has shrunk. Not all linen fabrics will shrink the same.
Why can't you put linen in the dryer? ›
As already mentioned before, linen is a very sturdy material, however, it is made of natural flax fibers that tend to shrink if washed improperly. Hot water and hot temperature encourage the shrinkage process, especially if linen fabric is not pre-washed.
What stabilizer do you use on linen? ›
When embroidering, I like to use a 75/11 needle and medium weight cutaway stabilizer. To ensure that the fabric and stabilizer don't move during stitching, use a spray adhesive such as Gunnold KK 100. Spray the stabilizer with the adhesive and smooth the onto the backside of the linen item.
What are the faults in linen fabric? ›
Different types of defects (a)–(d) Linen fabric defects are classified as stain and broken course, stain, hole and broken course types, (e)–(h) Patterned fabric defects are classified as hole, end out, stain and double flat.
How do you keep linen fabric from fraying? ›
Fabric sealant and fabric glue is a quick and easy way to prevent fraying on your crafting project. Used often to fix sequins and embellishments, while fabric glue is effective it won't provide significant strength.
Can you machine dry 100% linen? ›
How do I dry linen? Feel free to machine (tumble) dry your linen clothes or textile, as long as you stick to low temperatures. Remove from the dryer when still slightly damp to avoid the linen becoming stiff, and hang or lie flat to finish off the drying process.
Can you dry 100% linen in the dryer? ›
Natural linen fabric can safely go in the tumble dryer, as long as the care instructions indicate this is suitable on the garment. Use a medium heat to dry linen shirts, linen bedding or linen clothes. Too much heat can, again, cause shrinking or damage. Hang as soon as they are dry to prevent further wrinkling.
Does 100% linen shrink in the dryer? ›
Does linen shrink in the dryer? Yes, in fact, many of us have learned the hard way that linen can shrink after washing by drying it at too high a temperature! The safest method of drying linen without shrinking it is to either line dry or tumble dry low in the dryer.
What can I use instead of fabric stabilizer? ›
Cotton, sweatshirt materials, fleece, flannel are all good alternatives to fabric stabilizers.
Linen does not require any special treatment like dry cleaning. In fact, taking care of it is easier than it seems. Linen fabric can be washed in a washing machine or hand washed using regular washing detergent. It even dries faster than most other fabrics!
Are you supposed to starch linen? ›
Can You Use Starch on Linen? If you insist on a truly stiff look to your linen, go ahead and spritz it with starch or fabric sizing. This is also a good strategy if you wish to press creases into your linen trousers or keep collars and cuffs looking crisp.
How do you tell if it's 100% linen? ›
So if you want to find out which fabric is linen and which is cotton, wet your finger in clean water and then press it against the fabric. The fabric where the stain will absorb faster and penetrate the other way will be linen. Linen yarn has fewer fibers on the surface than cotton yarn.
How can you tell high quality linen? ›
Higher-quality linens are opaque as opposed to flimsy and gauzy. The lines and edges look smooth and free from stains. Colored linens should have a rich, even color with no signs of fading or discoloration on any part of the linen.
How do you finish linen edges? ›
Finishing the Seams
To clean finish an edge, straight stitch approximately one-eighth inch to one-fourth inch from the edge and then turn the edge under on the stitch line and straight stitch through the two layers. You can also use double-fold bias tape or special seam-finishing tape to enclose the raw edges.
