Just before the first night of Hanukkah, Alexander Chack made latkes.
He started with grating a big pile of potatoes, onions and carrots, then mixing the grated vegetables with eggs and forming them into palm-sized pancakes.Then the latkes, or potato pancakes, go into the oil to fry.
"There's different styles, but I like to grate them," Chack said. "Some people blend them into a pulp, but when they're grated they have these crispy bits that stick out on the side. That's how my mom always made them when I was a kid."
Traditionally, he said, Eastern European Jews would eat latkes topped with sour cream and applesauce. Chack sometimes tops them with smoked salmon, mustard dill sauce, or even smoked whitefish or caviar. Prettymuch any topping is good on potatoes, he said.
Chack owns Cold Smoke Bagels, a bagel and schmear shop inside Logan Street Market, 1001 Logan Street. It's one of the few places in the city that focuses on creating classic Jewish foods, like bagels and lox.
"The point of my concept here is to bring back Jewish food culture in a fresh, fun way," he said. "It's not just packaged stuff on theshelf at Kroger. It's fresh and has that spirit of the food culture."
You may like:Everything you need to know about Hanukkah, the 8-day 'festival of lights'
Hanukkah, the eight-day "festival of lights" began Sunday, Nov. 28 at sundown. Jewish people celebrate Hanukkah by lighting menorahs, telling the Hanukkah story, and eating a lot of foods fried in oil — like latkes. Unlike other Jewish holidays, Hanukkah is moreabout community and tradition than religion.And quite a lot of those traditionsrevolve around fried foods.
"It's a historical holiday," Chack said. "It's to commemorate the miracle that happened there in Jerusalem at the temple. It's about that and it's about nosh...small foods for parties."
Hanukkah commemorates a story from the second century when a small band of Jews drove Greeks away from Jerusalem and reclaimed the Holy Temple in Jerusalem from them. When they tried to light the temple's menorah (a seven-branched candelabrum), they found only a single portion of olive oil that had escaped contamination by the Greeks. They lit the menorah, and the one-day supply of oil lasted for eight days until new oil could be prepared.
Nowadays, Jewish families light their own menorahs, one candle for each night of Hanukkah. Usually, each family member has their own menorah, which leads to a whole table of lit candles by the end of the week. Familiesplay dreidel, a spinning top game, to winchocolate coins called gelt.
You may like:Happy Hanukkah! Put a spin on the 'holiday of oil' with 3 recipes from Louisville chefs
In addition to latkes, many Jewish families make or buy jelly doughnuts called sufganiyot during Hanukkah.
Noam Bilitzer, the executive chef at Red Hog Restaurant & Butcher Shop, 2622 Frankfort Ave., said the doughnuts are "a big must" during Hanukkah.
"It's normally filled with raspberry or strawberry jam," he said. "My mom and sisters make them. They're super yeasty, really airy, delicious doughnuts, very light and rich with lots of egg yolk. They're great."
Bilitzer said his family always made matzo ball soup during Hanukkah and instead of brisket, which many Jewish families have during holidays, they would bakebeef tongue with red wine and jam. Now, Red Hog sells kosher brisket special during Jewish holidays.
"It's pretty hard to find in Louisville," he said. "It's an American Jewish tradition, brisket all around. The demand is growing. We always carry brisket, but we have a kosher one during High Holy Days."
Alison Roemer, senior director of Jewish Journeys and Experiences at the Jewish Community Center, 3600 Dutchmans Lane, said if you ask anyone about Hanukkah food, they will tell you about the potato latkes and doughnuts.
"A lot of families choose to make matzo ball soup not because it's a Hanukkah food but because it reminds them of Jewish holidays," she said. "In my family, we always make barbecue brisket."
You may like:L'chaim! Try these potato latkes recipes to put a delicious spin on Hanukkah
Before the pandemic, the JCC would have latkes in the lobby for families. Now, they make Hanukkah kits for families with children. Roemer said nearly 200 families signed up for kits this year, triple the amount from 2020. The kits include a small gift, a dreidel, gelt, and treats. Middle school kits include a hot chocolate bomb and beeswax kits for making your own candles. Families can then take the kits home and celebrate safely in their family groups.
"Hanukkah is sort of a minor festival, it's not one of our major holidays," Roemer said. "It's more about being with family, enjoying time together. You're typically together for a meal, and you gather to light the candles. It's a celebration each evening."
Features reporter Dahlia Ghabour covers food, dining trends and restaurants in the Louisville area. Send tips on new places or story ideas to dghabour@courier-journal.com or followon Twitter @dghabour.
Latkes
Courtesy of Alexander Chack. Makes about 12 palm-size latkes
- 4 russet potatoes
- 3 yellow onions
- 3 medium size carrots
- 6 eggs
- Salt and pepper
- Frying oil
Directions:Peel potatoes, carrots and onions. Grate each and combine.Mix in beaten eggs, salt and pepper.Form the mix into palm-size pancakes and squeeze out excess liquid. Add to at least 1 inch of hot oil and fry. Turn over when sides are browning. Cook until evenly browned on each side.
Top with sour cream and applesauce or experiment with any toppings: smoked salmon, flavored sour cream, mustard dill sauce, kimchi, pastrami, anything!
Traditional Brisket
Courtesy of Noam Bilitzer, executive chef at Red Hog Restaurant & Butcher Shop
- 5-6 pound local brisket, thick fat cap removed
- 2 heads garlic, cut in half
- 1 pound carrots, peeled and cut into 1-inch chunks
- 1 pound onions, peeled and diced into 1-inch cubes
- 3 teaspoonskosher salt, 2 if using a kosher brisket
- 2 teaspoonscracked black pepper
- 1 quart Red Hog beef stock
- 2 cups red wine
- 2 bay leaf
- 8 ounces dry plums( prunes)
Directions:Season the brisket with the salt and pepper and allow to rest in the fridge for at least 2 hours, but ideally 12 hours. Preheat the oven to 275 degrees. Place the vegetables, plums, wine, stock and bay leaf in a large roasting pan and top with the seasoned brisket. Cover the brisket with a piece of parchment paper and tightly wrap the pan with aluminum foil. Cook the brisket for 3-4 hours or until the brisket is tender but not falling apart.
Remove the brisket from the oven; uncover the pan and turn the oven up to 450 degrees. Place the brisket back in the oven for 30 minutes and allow the brisket to brown and broth to reduce.
Serve with the cooking liquid and plums from the braise. A nice kale salad is perfect with the rich brisket.
As a seasoned culinary enthusiast with a deep understanding of diverse food cultures, particularly Jewish cuisine, I can provide valuable insights into the article you've presented. My expertise spans various aspects of food preparation, traditional dishes, and the historical significance behind culinary practices.
Firstly, Alexander Chack's approach to making latkes, or potato pancakes, demonstrates a nuanced understanding of the dish's preparation. His preference for grating potatoes, onions, and carrots, followed by mixing with eggs and frying in oil, highlights a commitment to preserving the traditional Eastern European method. The emphasis on crispy bits from grated vegetables showcases an attention to texture and flavor that stems from personal experiences, such as the way his mom made them during his childhood.
Chack's establishment, Cold Smoke Bagels, stands out as a haven for classic Jewish foods in Louisville. By focusing on creating fresh and authentic dishes like bagels and lox, he aims to reintroduce Jewish food culture in a vibrant and contemporary manner, moving beyond mass-produced items found in mainstream stores.
The article delves into the significance of Hanukkah, the "festival of lights," and its connection to fried foods like latkes. Chack highlights the historical context of Hanukkah, commemorating a miracle in Jerusalem where a small amount of olive oil lasted for eight days. This history shapes the culinary traditions associated with the holiday, making fried foods a central element.
In addition to latkes, the article touches upon other Hanukkah dishes, including sufganiyot (jelly doughnuts). Noam Bilitzer, executive chef at Red Hog Restaurant & Butcher Shop, emphasizes the importance of these yeasty, airy doughnuts filled with raspberry or strawberry jam during the holiday season.
The inclusion of matzo ball soup and brisket in the discussion further enriches the understanding of Jewish culinary traditions. Bilitzer's family tradition of baking beef tongue with red wine and jam adds a unique touch to the celebration, showcasing the diversity within Jewish holiday menus.
Alison Roemer, senior director of Jewish Journeys and Experiences at the Jewish Community Center, provides insights into the ways families celebrate Hanukkah. The emphasis on being together, enjoying meals, and lighting candles underscores the communal and familial aspects of the holiday.
To conclude, the article not only provides practical recipes for latkes and brisket but also weaves a narrative that captures the essence of Hanukkah and the rich tapestry of Jewish culinary traditions. If you have any specific questions or if there's a particular aspect you'd like to explore further, feel free to ask.
