Painting on Ceramics with Acrylics | Just Paint (2024)
We often get asked “What is the best way to paint on ceramics with acrylic paint?”. The question is usually geared toward painting unglazed pottery, but also sometimes glazed ceramics. We do not recommend our products be used on anything that will touch food, hold liquid or go into a dishwasher, so painting ceramics should only be considered if doing a decorative piece instead of a functional piece. Glazed ceramics are waterproof and acrylics will have poor adhesion, so painting glazed ceramics is generally not recommended. We also do not recommend that painted ceramic be used near heat, as with fireplace surrounds, beverage coasters or trivets.
First let’s define ceramics and specifically what we tested with our acrylics.
“Greenware” or “Green” refers to clay that is air dried and has not been fired in a kiln. Green ceramics are extremely fragile and should be handled very cautiously. Without firing the clay, it really has very little strength and a short life span. We do not recommend using greenware as your final piece of artwork or a base for painting because even if you could get the paint to stick, it would not add protection or strength.
“Bisque” fired clay or unglazed ceramics is greenware clay that has been fired once in a kiln. Bisque firing builds structure and strength. These are the best type of ceramics to be used if you would like to apply paint. Bisque fired clay is very porous and it is optimal if the paint soaks into the pores of the bisque fired clay for best adhesion. High Flow Acrylics tend to absorb quickly into the bisque and barely leave any film formation on top of the piece and why it showed the best adhesion in our testing. This could also be achieved by thinning the Heavy Body and Fluid Acrylics with water and applying as a wash or applying a thin medium like High Flow Medium as a first coat and letting dry, then painting on top of the dry medium. The only challenge with thin paint is that it could bleed into valleys left behind if the leather-hard clay was trimmed before completely being left to dry before firing. This can be beautiful as a stain effect, but could be difficult if fine details are needed. This should not be an issue if the clay surface is smooth, as in clay that is cast in a mold.
Glazed ceramics is clay that has already been fired once, then ceramic glazes are applied and the piece is fired again at a higher temperature. The glazes turn glass-like in the high heat and add durability to the piece. Glazed pottery is waterproof, meaning it can hold water, take heat or cold and can be put in a dishwasher. Artist acrylics are not a replacement for ceramic glazes and should not be fired in a kiln. Melting acrylics is unhealthy. Acrylics have poor adhesion to glazed ceramics and you could likely scratch it off with your fingernail. This is the reason we do not recommend painting on glazed ceramics including tiles; the paint will not make a permanent bond and would remain vulnerable to scratching. Adding GAC 200 into the paint or applied first and then paint applied on top could create better, but not perfect adhesion to glazed ceramics.
Testing Specifics on Bisque
On the bisque fired earthenware, stoneware and porcelain clay bodies we tested the adhesion of High Flow Acrylics, Fluid Acrylics, Heavy Body Acrylics, High Flow Medium, GAC 100, GAC 200, and GAC 800. What we discovered was that all three of the acrylic paint lines generally had good adhesion to the unglazed pottery. We saw a small bit of a failure with the Fluid Acrylics and Heavy Body where the paint was applied thicker, so our best recommendation would be to keep the paint thin or use High Flow Acrylics, which soaked into the pores and became more incorporated into the piece.
In fact, the clay was so absorbent there was no film built up on to the surface from the High Flow to even cut for the adhesion test! Of the mediums tested, the only one that had poor adhesion was the GAC 100, so if you wanted to create a translucent glaze-like finish with acrylics, we would recommend High Flow Medium, as this is our thinnest medium. The GAC 200, which is our hardest paint film, mixed into the paint could also be used. These will give a tinted glaze to the piece. GAC 200 needs to be applied in a room temperature of at least 70°F or it will crack upon drying. This temperature caveat can be overcome if you mix a minimum of 25% paint or another medium into the GAC 200. You could stop at this point if you were just creating a decorative piece of art.
Topcoating Painted Bisque
If you would like to use it to hold water or a plant, we would recommend applying a functional and highly durable topcoat inside and outside the pot. We tested a couple of products on the market to see if it would become waterproof and what we found was the two part epoxy held up the best. We suspected that if a bisque fired vessel was only painted with acrylics, not topcoated, and filled with water, that the acrylics would blanche and swell and eventually fail because they are porous on a microscopic level. Our test showed otherwise. After a week filled with water in a porcelain pot painted inside and out with Fluid Acrylics, the paint held and saw no issues. Since this was limited testing, we don’t have complete confidence in this application and suspect there could be issues with more porous clay bodies like stoneware and earthenware.
We also tested a water based polyurethane/acrylic commercial topcoat. The water caused this layer to quickly blanch and the bowl dried with a white coating. We think if constantly filled with water, this coating could potentially blister and peel in time. Another option for the painted pot to hold a houseplant, could be to line the pot with some plastic sheeting.
Testing Specifics on Glazed Ceramics
On Glazed ceramics, we tested High Flow Medium, GAC 100, GAC 200, GAC 800 and three acrylic paint lines: High Flow Acrylics, Fluid Acrylics and Heavy Body Acrylics. We tested GAC 200 because it can improve adhesion to non-porous surfaces and GAC 800 because it can improve adhesion to chalky surfaces. All three of the paint lines failed the adhesion tests. The GAC 100 and 800 also failed. The GAC 200 on its own had better adhesion, but we saw some failure with the acrylic mixed in or on top where it was thicker in the high points of the brush strokes. Acrylics are soft and flexible, so if you would like the paint to be harder, you could mix GAC 200 into the paint to make it harder. While we did see some success of the tests with the High Flow Medium and GAC 200, we would consider it adequate adhesion and not a permanent bond and it may not hold up over time.
In Summary
Painting bisque fired ceramics can be a good alternative if traditional glaze firing is not an option or you desire a more painterly finish, but we must stress that paint is not as durable as ceramic glazing and should only be used for decorative purposes as a sculptural art piece. A benefit to painting instead of glazing is the control that can be had of line, mark or image. There is always an element of surprise when a piece is removed from the kiln after a glaze firing. Due to the nature of the ceramic glaze becoming liquid in the high temperature of a kiln, most glazes tend to move, flow, run, or change color and details and hard edges can be difficult to achieve.
Acrylic paint is the only paint that may be used on ceramics. Acrylic is a very flexible media that may be used on practically any object you can conceive of. It's ideal for pottery since it sticks so well to the clay, however, it's best to coat the clay beforehand with clear acrylic spray paint.
Acrylic paint stays on ceramic when painted on unglazed or bisque ceramic that is primed with acrylic gesso. Finishing the painted piece with a clear topcoat will protect, add sheen and enhance the colors of the finished product. Curing the finished product for 2 weeks will fully harden the paint.
Glazed ceramics are waterproof and acrylics will have poor adhesion, so painting glazed ceramics is generally not recommended. We also do not recommend that painted ceramic be used near heat, as with fireplace surrounds, beverage coasters or trivets.
It tends to take professional acrylic paints from twenty minutes to half an hour to dry such that you can touch them without leaving a mark if applied in a thin layer. Based on the environment you paint in, one to two hours is the drying time for thicker layers.
If you are using glazed ceramic, you should prepare the surface by sanding it and/or applying a primer. This will assist the acrylic paint with adhesion. Applying primer to porous ceramics will also help with adhesion but is not absolutely necessary.
The binder is what makes the paint stick to the surface - in your case, the board. If you dilute the acrylic paint too much with water, it may weaken the binder. This means that the paint may form a weak bond to the surface and lift off the next time you go over it.
If I use acrylics from a tube or a jar, I usually wet my paintbrush and then drip a bit of water onto the paint and mix it together until it gets nice and fluid, adding more water when/if necessary.
The ideal paint for painting on ceramics is acrylic paint that has been specially designed for painting on ceramics. Most of these paints are easily available in arts and crafts and hardware stores. The paint needs to be water-based and non-toxic so that it can be safe to use near food and hold hot drinks.
The secret to painting on glazed ceramic is DecoArt's new Glass Paint! They come in a ton of colors and are absolutely essential for painting on smooth surfaces like glass or glazed ceramic. You even have the option of baking it for a dishwasher-safe option.
Some say the ratio of mixing is one-third glazing painting liquid, one-third acrylic paint color, and one-third water. Others say one part of acrylic paint color to 10 parts of glazing medium, and then add enough water to create the right consistency.
No water is needed to apply the paint and there is no need to wash off the pottery before painting. Water should only be used to rinse brushes of a color before switching to another color, or for getting paint off of the piece.
You can mix a “slow dry medium” into your paint and that will slow the drying time to make the paint more workable for blending. You can use paint that already has a “slow dry” medium into it. They are a little pricier and are called “open acrylics”.
In most cases, you will probably want the acrylics to dry completely before you add another layer. The amount of time it takes to dry depends on how thinly or thickly you applied the paint, as well as whether or not you mixed any gels or mediums into the paint.
This is why I was trying to figure out effective ways on how to make acrylic paint dry faster. To make acrylic paint dry faster, first of all, you need to set up the warm and dry workplace, apply only thin layers, and do not add any slow-drying mediums or even too much water – it slows down drying.
To cover the painting completely will take a minimum of two coats, even with artist quality paint. To paint sections will take longer because you won't have the coloured ground to fall back on. You will have to cover every area of the canvas.
If you are going to paint with acrylics on unglazed ceramic and you don't plan to fire the ceramic in a kiln, then after the acrylics have dried you can seal it with a water-based polyurethane, such as Jo Sonja's Water Based Polyurethane Varnish (this links to Blick Art Materials, and if you make a purchase I get a ...
How long paint needs to cure before adding ceramic coating depends on the type of paint you use, but expect to wait 30 to 90 days before applying a ceramic coat. You are correct that the best time to add a ceramic coat is when the paint is fresh, as you want to protect the paint job from any scratches.
In a bowl, mix a ratio of 80% PVA glue to 20% water to create a creamy consistency, and then coat your fully dried clay piece, and allow the sealer mixture to dry. Once you have applied your PVA glue mixture or acrylic medium, you can then apply 3 coats of acrylic paint to seal your work.
So when you add baking soda to your paint it doesn't react with the paint in any way. It just adds texture, the grains of baking soda in the paint create the texture. Baking powder however reacts with the paint and changes it. As you'll see in pictures below the paint bubbles up, making it thicker.
Acrylic Paint Instructions and Tips. You don't 'need' to start with a wet brush, but if you want your paint to glide smoothly then it's best to have the bristles wet.
Water breaks down the binder in acrylic, thinning the paint so that it looks like watercolor and allows it to sink into the surface, resulting in a matte finish. Acrylic medium minimizes the need for the addition of water and allows the paint to sit on top of the surface, maintaining a rich, glossy appearance.
Acrylic paint is water soluble, meaning that it is dissolved by water. So you can understand why you wouldn't want to add too much water. Now, you can add small amounts of water, but the absolute max that you would want to add is about 50:50 water to paint.
The material you're painting will also determine if sanding between coats is necessary. As a general rule, if the surface you just painted doesn't feel or look smooth, sand it!
All you need to do is mix the gloss medium into the paint on the palette, and then paint as normal. The paint should dry to a glossy finish. To achieve even more gloss, apply a high gloss varnish once the painting is finished and the paint is dry.
Pick latex, acrylic, or epoxy paint for ceramic tile or large pieces of pottery. For projects like painting a tile wall or a ceramic vase, use a liquid paint that you can apply by hand. Opt for epoxy paint to get a glossy, highly durable and long-lasting finish.
The secret to painting on glazed ceramic is DecoArt's new Glass Paint! They come in a ton of colors and are absolutely essential for painting on smooth surfaces like glass or glazed ceramic. You even have the option of baking it for a dishwasher-safe option.
Acrylic paint will also not adhere to Teflon, nylon, and silicon. In order for the acrylic paint to stick, you will need to prepare the surface by lightly sanding the plastic surfaces, applying a base coat or primer.
In most cases, acrylic mediums are too thick to create an effective glaze, so water is often added. Mediums are not required to create a glaze. Simply adding water to the paint often results in an effective glaze.
There are two basic types of paint used to paint porcelain. The first is a simple paint that is applied directly and allowed to dry. There are specialty paints available for ceramic and glass surfaces, or simple acrylics can be used.
The best ways to seal an acrylic painting is to use an acrylic resin varnish, acrylic polymer varnish, clear sealer, or mod podge, depending on the surface you are painting on. To avoid confusion, the word varnish can be used to refer to a traditional, oil-based finish or a general term for any finish.
Paint will stick to glazed ceramics as long as you prep the piece before painting. With the right prep work any paint will stick following these spray painting steps. Sand surface with 100 grit sandpaper to rough up the surface to provide some tooth for the primer and paint to stick to.
Disadvantages: acrylic paints can contain toxins within their pigments, just like some oil paints do. Additional toxins can be found in acrylics that use 'retarder' to slow down the drying time.
The binder is what makes the paint stick to the surface - in your case, the board. If you dilute the acrylic paint too much with water, it may weaken the binder. This means that the paint may form a weak bond to the surface and lift off the next time you go over it.
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