My New Favorite Water-Based Polyurethane Over Paint! (2024)
Last Updated on May 7, 2019 by
Y’all, I have a new water-based polyurethane over paint favorite! It’s General Finishes High Performance Top Coat and it is WONDERFUL! Let me back up a little bit and tell you how I got here…
In my last post, I said that I was going to paint all of my cabinets with a brush because I couldn’t stand the thought of taping and draping everything for spraying indoors.
And now two days later, my kitchen looks like this…
Yes, that’s right. I’ve spent the last two days covering everything — walls, floor, countertops, doorways — so that I can spray my cabinets.And let me tell you, taping around those cabinet feet was a huge pain in the butt.
Why did it take me two days to do a one-day job? Because I absolutely hate doing it!!So I took a hundred breaks a day, made excuses for why I needed to stop and look things up online (very, very important things, I’m sure! 😀 ), ate way too many Sun Chips and Fig Newtons and drank way too much tea (because as long as myhands are busy doing something, then I can trick myself into thinking I’m working hard and making progress), spent way too much time on Instagram during the day, and stood around listening to podcasts while staring at my kitchen and dreading the job.
But I finally got it done. And I also got the rest of the sanding done, which means that this morning I’ll be ready to paint right from the start. And by the end of the day, I’ll finally see some major progress.
So why the change of heart? Well, I like a job done right. That doesn’t mean that painting with a brush is wrong, by any means. Sometimes it’s the only option, and if that’s the case, you can get a beautiful finish with a brush with some patience and attention to detail. Click here to see how I get a near-flawless finish with a brush...
But I’ve already sprayed the doors, and they have the most beautiful finish on them. Click here for more info on the paint sprayer I use…
And I worked hard to get those doors as close to perfect as I could, starting with hours of grain filling and sanding. So I couldn’t bear the thought of wimping out on the actual cabinets just because I don’t like taping and covering everything. I don’t plan to paint my cabinets again for a very long time, so taking the extra time to do the absolute best job I can this go ’round is worth it.
Yes, I dragged my feet, and I procrastinated, and I took way too many breaks. But I did it. And I’m going to be very glad I did in the long run.
And speaking of finishes, this time around has been a repeat of the last time I painted my cabinets. I used Benjamin Moore Advance, which is really high-quality paint developed specifically for cabinets. It dries hard, cleans easily, etc. It really is amazing paint, and it’s pretty pricey. (About $65/gallon.) Unfortunately, the lowest sheen it comes in is satin. Or at least that’s what it says on the can. Their idea of satin is quite different from mine, and it always seems more like a semi-gloss to me.
Well, I much prefer a true satin or matte finish, but having gone through this before, I knew exactly what I needed to do. I needed to just put a clear water-based polyurethane over the paint. Last time I used Rust-Oleum water-based matte polyurethane. It was fine, but I wasn’t impressed enough with it to use it again. Minwax Polycrylic is junk, in my humble opinion. It dries way to fast, does not self-level, and has ruined more than one project of mine, so that wasn’t even an option.
So I decided to try a brand that many of you have recommended to me over the last year — General Finishes High Performance Water-Based Top Coat in a flat finish. It’s not available locally, so I ordered mine on Amazon. (Click here to see the one I bought.)
Y’all, this is absolutely THE BEST water-based polyurethane I’ve ever used over paint. Check out this gorgeous finish…
That’s a sprayed finish. It still has a sheen to it, and in my mind, it’s not really flat. I’d call that satin, but it’s absolutely gorgeous.
I actually ordered a quart of satin last year when I was having so much trouble with that one table I refinished/painted over and over. After having so much trouble with the Minwax Polycrylic, someone suggested General Finishes Top Coat, so I ordered it for Round 7 of table refinishing, but Round 7 never came (and aren’t we all glad about that?). 😀
But that quart of satin finish came in handy when I refinished my dining chairs.
I sanded those chairs and painted them with a sample size of Sherwin Williams paint that I had on hand. I don’t know what kind of paint they use for their samples, but I was disappointed because it didn’t seem like the finish would be easy to clean. It felt like a really porous matte finish that would be scuffed and stained easily, which isn’t quite what I needed on dining chairs. So I got out that General Finishes satin top coat (this is the one I used) and brushed the polyurethane on over the paint… and it totally transformed the finish on those chairs. Now the finish feels so silky smooth, and it’s very durable and easy to clean.
And I also used it on the breakfast room table before I went back and darkened the finish with my stain/oil-based poly mixture. That was the true test because I brushed the General Finishes polyurethane on the top of the table. That’s where Minwax Polycrylic fails me every time — when using it on large flat surfaces. It dries too fast for brushing, and it doesn’t self-level when rolling with one of those small rollers, so you’re either left with a finish with drag marks and uneven sheen from brushing, or a bumpy finish from rolling. Polycrylic doesn’t even spray well, again because it dries too fast. I always get an uneven sheen on large flat surfaces even when spraying Polycrylic. (Can you tell I think that stuff is junk?)
Anyway, I brushed the General Finishes top coat onto the table top, and to be honest, I expected the same disappointing results that I always get from Polycrylic. But it was so different. It acted more like an oil-based poly in that it stayed wet much longer, brushed on beautifully, and self-leveled so that brush strokes are minimized, but it did that without the smell, hassle of clean up, or yellow/amber tint that you get with oil-based poly. I’m telling you, this is my new favorite clear coat finish. It’s amazing stuff! I highly recommend it.
If you can’t find it in your area, you can click here to get it on Amazon, which is how I buy mine. I have an Amazon Prime membership, so it gets to me within a day or two.
So, since I used my new favorite polyurethane over the paint on my cabinet doors, naturally I’ll be using it on my cabinets, too. And since this is my last time painting my kitchen cabinets for many years, they deserve the nicest sprayed finish I can give them.
Kristi Linauer
Addicted 2 Decorating is where I share my DIY and decorating journey as I remodel and decorate the 1948 fixer upper that my husband, Matt, and I bought in 2013. Matt has M.S. and is unable to do physical work, so I do the majority of the work on the house by myself. You can learn more about me here.
I hope you’ll join me on my DIY and decorating journey! If you want to follow my projects and progress, you can subscribe below and have each new post delivered to your email inbox. That way you’ll never miss a thing!
The basic application technique for water-based poly is similar to that for oil-based. Apply a very thin coat of polyurethane with a fine brush, foam pad, or cloth.Work with the grain, and avoid applying too much polyurethane to avoid raising the grain.
Product Options. Polyurethane can be oil- or water-based, and you can use either kind over latex paint; however, oil-based polyurethane tends to yellow as it ages, whereas water-based varieties stay transparent.
Polyurethane is so durable and water-resistant, it has largely replaced shellac and varnish as a wood finish. Originally, it had to be brushed on, but different formulations mean it can now be applied as a spray or by wiping it on with a rag.
High quality water based polyurethanes is considered by many homeowners & flooring professionals to be equally durable. Oil based poly can last around 10 years. Water based poly can have the same longevity. The key is using high quality water based poly like Bona Traffic and having it applied by a professional.
Water-based polyurethanes are thinner liquids, which means that they will require four to five coats. Oil-based polyurethanes are thicker, and will need between three and four coats.
My last project was a simple pair of matching step-up stools for my kids. I learned alot about mortise and tenon and flattening boards by hand, but what stumped me was the finish. I used a water based Polyurethane and it dried so fast that you can see brush strokes in reflective light.
Water-based polyurethane requires at least two hours of dry time between coats, and you should only apply two coats in a day. It's important to remember that drying time is affected by temperature and humidity.
What is the main disadvantage of using water-based polyurethane? Water-based polyurethane can raise the grain of the wood and make it rough-looking. This happens because water-based polyurethane is absorbed into the wood, causing the grain to swell as it dries.
Vinegar should never be used on polyurethane floors, for example. Because it's an acid, vinegar can eat away at hard finishes like polyurethane and wax. Use only white vinegar, diluted with water, on soft floors that are finished with an oil-based coating.
Sanding between coats is not required for adhesion as long as the time between coats is less than 6 hours. However, screening or sanding between coats usually produces a smoother better looking finish. A minimum of 3 coats of finish are recommended. Do not apply more than two coats the same day.
Don't use rollers or foam brushes—they create bubbles. Your brush will be easier to clean, and will go longer between cleanings, if its bristles are dipped first in mineral spirits, if you're using an oil-based poly, or in water, if the finish is water-based.
The proper way to polyurethane over paint. Before you add a few polyurethane layers over dried paint, you'll need make a few preparations before you can get started. It's important to note that your paint should be fully cured before you apply a layer of polyurethane.
For fast-drying polyurethane and most water-based poly, it will still remain glossy even after sanding, so it won't necessarily help with adhesion. In conclusion, it's necessary to sand polyurethane between coats for a perfect finish.
Water based poly, an acrylic product, is a thinner, but harder coating. Oil poly can be more susceptible to dents, while water based poly can be more susceptible to surface scratching.
A roller is the recommended method for applying some water-based polyurethanes, as well as some oil-based polyurethanes and moisture-cured poly finishes.
Apply only one thin coat. Then, remove any dust nibs with 1,500-grit sandpaper or a piece of brown paper bag. Finally, using a soft cotton rag or polishing pad, buff the finish to a high shine using automotive paste wax, photo below, which has fine abrasives that polish the finish even further.
The Advantages of Water Based Polyurethane Floor Finish
Eco Friendly, Healthier & Safer. Perhaps the greatest advantage to the homeowner who goes with a water based product is that there will be virtually no exposure to VOC's – volatile organic compounds. ...
You'll want to use water-based polyurethane if you have any aversion to dealing with messy, odorous solvents. Water-based polyurethane finishes are easy to apply and easy to clean up after. If you only need a thinner, more flexible coating, water-based polyurethanes might be right for you.
You are best off using 3 coats of water based polyurethane for the best results. And, this is is especially important on the 1st floor of your home and heavy traffic areas (e.g. kitchen, entryway, family room).
We recommend a minimum of 2 days of socks-only traffic for floors finished with oil polyurethane. The house is not inhabitable for a minimum of 2 days after the job is completed, and better to stay out for at least 5 as the fumes/off-gassing is not advisable to breathe in, even if there are other rooms to sleep in.
An oil based polyurethane will continue to amber and darken over time, while water-based poly will remain clear for the lifetime of the hardwood floor.
Thin your polyurethane with paint thinner, mixing it with a paint stir stick. When polyurethane is too thick, the brush marks hold their shape and don't settle out. Thinning the product provides a smoother finished surface. Experiment with different amounts of paint thinner to see what works best for you.
Synthetic bristle brushes are the most common option. The bristles are made with synthetic material, like nylon or polyester, which is better for applying water-based polyurethane. These brushes are also frequently used with latex-based paints.
Can you apply polyurethane with a foam roller. Yes, you can apply more polyurethane with a foam roller, microfiber, and mohair. The foam works well with oil-based poly. However, don't use a foam roller when applying water-based polyurethane.
What happens if you don't sand between coats. If you fail to sand polyurethane that requires it, you will compromise the adhesion between the coats. Instead of the coats combining, each dries independently, creating layers.
Oil based polyurethane lasts longer than water based.
There is no contest on the durability between the 2 options. Water based polyurethane has lower VOC's - which is a bit of an environmental benefit (more about that in a moment) - but because it has lower VOC's (Volatile Organic Compounds), it doesn't last as long.
Overall, it is said that it takes a full 30 days for the floors to properly cure, which means this will likely be the duration of time that you deal with toxic fumes in the air space.
Most standard cleaning solutions contain either an alcohol or ammonia base, which over an extended period of time, can eat through the finish. At Grain Designs we also use low sheen urethane finishes. Common furniture cleaners such as Pledge furniture polish, may actually damage the topcoat of your furniture.
Use a smooth piece of sandpaper that's around 1500-grit, then start rubbing down the finish in long, smooth motions. If you don't have any sandpaper on hand, you can also use a brown paper bag to buff the surface. If you don't have any super-fine sandpaper on hand, you can use a lower grit level, like 320.
The mineral spirits will provide a more forgiving coat of polyurethane and will also help any bubbles in the finish to burst before it sets up and dries. Pour the polyurethane into a separate container and add some mineral spirits.
When you recoat after 2 hours you get a chemical bond between layers. If you let it go longer than that, you need to wait 24 hours so it's hard enough to sand and get a mechanical bond.
Sand lightly with 240-grit sandpaper between coats, then let the last coat dry for at least 24 hours. This is standard practice with any wood finishing job, and is nothing out of the ordinary.
The All-Around Best Clear Coat For Painted Wood Furniture: Varathane Water-Based Polyurethane, Satin. After testing seven different products, Varathane's Water-Based Polyurethane was the clear winner! This clear coat is great for interior products including furniture, cabinets, trim, or any other pieces of wood.
Apply a very thin coat of polyurethane with a fine brush, foam pad, or cloth. Work with the grain, and avoid applying too much polyurethane to avoid raising the grain. The initial coat should be dry within a couple of hours, and you can then apply a second coat.
Polyurethane is a clear varnish that dries to a hard, solid finish. It protects your wooden surfaces from scratches and prevents paint from peeling, and it's easy to clean.
To avoid bubbles in water-based polyurethane, apply multiple thin coats using a quality synthetic polyurethane brush instead of a natural brush. And before applying polyurethane, dampen the brush with water to avoid bubbling, puddling, or running.
Yes, you can varnish over emulsion paint. However, it is recommended to apply water-based varnish over emulsion paints because most of these paints contain a high volume of water as the paint thinner. So the paint might not be compatible with oil-based paint.
Can Polycrylic® Protective Finish be used over paint and wall coverings? Yes.Polycrylic® may be applied over latex and oil-based paints and well-bonded wall coverings. Because slight ambering may occur, spot test on an inconspicuous area and let dry to ensure satisfactory results.
It's best to use a brush with natural rather than synthetic bristles for oil-based finishes, and synthetic brushes (often called 'nylon' brushes) for acrylic or water-based varnishes. But you can also use rollers or rags for both kinds of finish.
The All-Around Best Clear Coat For Painted Wood Furniture: Varathane Water-Based Polyurethane, Satin. After testing seven different products, Varathane's Water-Based Polyurethane was the clear winner! This clear coat is great for interior products including furniture, cabinets, trim, or any other pieces of wood.
21 days for water-based products. 30 days for oil-based products. You can use a piece lightly after about 7 days but be cautious - the finish will still be curing for another 2 or 3 weeks.
Apply only one thin coat. Then, remove any dust nibs with 1,500-grit sandpaper or a piece of brown paper bag. Finally, using a soft cotton rag or polishing pad, buff the finish to a high shine using automotive paste wax, photo below, which has fine abrasives that polish the finish even further.
Apply the first coat of polyurethane using the best technique for the surface. Brush flat surfaces with a thin coat using a bristle brush. Wipe contoured surfaces with a clean cloth, going with the grain. Brushing a rounded, contoured or vertical surface is more likely to create drips.
Polyurethane is better for durability, but polycrylic is better for interior surfaces like cabinets, furniture, and trim. However, for light painted furniture and cabinets, polycyrlic is preferred because it doesn't yellow on the surface.
Water-based polyurethane contains dries faster and is safer to use because it gives off fewer fumes when you are using it. Polycrylic is water-based and less toxic than polyurethane options.
Water-based polyurethanes lack that amber cast, but some still do cause white or light-colored surfaces to yellow after drying or become slightly cloudy over darker finishes such as milk paint.
Varnishing helps protect your painting by putting a sealing layer over your work. This means that if you varnish a painting and then put it outside or near water, you don't have to worry about it being damaged.
After your first coat of paint is dry, it's safe to recoat typically after four to six hours. A good rule of thumb is to wait at least three hours to recoat your paint or primer if it's water-based. Waiting 24 hours is best for oil-based paint and primer.
Introduction: My name is The Hon. Margery Christiansen, I am a bright, adorable, precious, inexpensive, gorgeous, comfortable, happy person who loves writing and wants to share my knowledge and understanding with you.
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