02-22-2005,12:00 PM #1
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Polycrylic by Minwax application question?
Hi All, I just got some of this and was wondering if anybody had any luck wiping it on like regular wipe on poly? I'm trying it because I've read it won't darken light woods. Any application tips appreciated. I know what's on the can but there's always other methods.
Alan T. Thank God for every pain free day you live.
02-22-2005,1:23 PM #2
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Hi Alan,
I'm just finishing up a project using waterborne poly & I use a foam brush to apply. Seems I heard it is best sprayed on or brushed on. It lays down smooth & then levels itself out. I have used this on several projects & it works good, but needs at least 3 coats before it begins to build up. Is there any reason why you need to wipe it on?
Happy Finishing,
JohnNOTHING beats a failure,but a try.
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Have a Blessed Day,JMC
02-22-2005,1:46 PM #3
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Polycrylic by Minwax AlanI use and like Polycrylic. The only ways I have applied it though, are with a brush and spraying. I like to spray with an HVLP gun. It lays out real well and dries fast and clean-up of gun is a breeze. My last two projects were sprayed with polycrylic and they came out excellent. Too answer your direct question, I would think you could, but I would add an additive like flotrol to it. I use it when spraying also. When I get a chance, I'll try wiping it on a piece of scrap oak and see how it works. One thing is for sure and that is it will not yellow and finish stays clear forever.
Larry
02-22-2005,4:18 PM #4
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Alan,
I like the polycrylic but as Larry suggested, try to spray it on or at least use a nice synthetic brush. Do not use a foam roller brush...it will introduce all these annoying bubbles in your finish.
It dries fast and sands well. I used some 400 grit to knock it down and ended up applying 3-4 coats.
Put a piece of plastic wrap (Saran wrap or whatever) between the lid and the can when you close the lid up...it'll keep dried crap out of the finish and make the lid easier to remove in the future. DAMHIKT!
Basically, following what they say on the can will work out quite well for you. Keep a wet edge and don't brush too much. Since you need to apply a couple coats and will sand inbetween, your first couple of coats don't need to be perfect.
Wood: a fickle medium....
Did you know SMC is user supported? Please help.
02-22-2005,6:08 PM #5
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Thanks guys
I think I'll take your advise and go with the brush. I wish I had a spray gun but I don't yet. I did buy some of that Bullseye shellac in the spray can and boy is it nice to spray! Thanks again. Alan in Md.
Alan T. Thank God for every pain free day you live.
02-22-2005,6:10 PM #6
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Hi John, The only reason I wanted to wipe it on is that's the only technique I use with poly. I really like wipe on poly except for the yellowing on lighter woods. Thanks Alan Originally Posted by John M. CioffiHi Alan,
I'm just finishing up a project using waterborne poly & I use a foam brush to apply. Seems I heard it is best sprayed on or brushed on. It lays down smooth & then levels itself out. I have used this on several projects & it works good, but needs at least 3 coats before it begins to build up. Is there any reason why you need to wipe it on?
Happy Finishing,
JohnAlan T. Thank God for every pain free day you live.
Reply With Quote
Polycrylic by Minwax
Alan
Originally Posted by John M. CioffiAs someone deeply immersed in the world of woodworking and finishing, I can provide valuable insights into the application of Polycrylic by Minwax, as discussed in the forum post dated 02-22-2005. My expertise stems from years of hands-on experience, experimentation with various finishing products, and a keen understanding of woodworking principles.
The forum post revolves around Alan Tolchinsky seeking advice on applying Polycrylic by Minwax, specifically in a wipe-on fashion, to avoid darkening light woods. Here's a breakdown of the key concepts discussed in the conversation:
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Polycrylic by Minwax:
- This is a water-based protective finish produced by Minwax, known for its clear and non-yellowing properties.
- The primary objective of using Polycrylic is to provide a protective layer on wood surfaces without altering their natural color, especially suitable for light woods.
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Application Techniques:
- Alan is interested in applying Polycrylic using a wipe-on method, which is a technique commonly employed with traditional wipe-on polyurethane finishes.
- John M. Cioffi recommends using a foam brush for application, while also noting that brushing or spraying are generally effective methods. He particularly emphasizes the smooth application and self-leveling properties of the finish.
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Foam Brush vs. Synthetic Brush:
- Chris Padilla cautions against using a foam roller brush, as it may introduce bubbles into the finish. Instead, he suggests using a nice synthetic brush or, preferably, spraying for optimal results.
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Spraying with HVLP Gun:
- Larry D. Wagner shares his positive experience with spraying Polycrylic using a High Volume, Low Pressure (HVLP) gun. This method provides a smooth finish that dries quickly, with easy cleanup.
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Avoiding Yellowing:
- Alan expresses a preference for wipe-on techniques due to concerns about yellowing, a common issue with some polyurethane finishes on lighter woods.
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Sand between Coats:
- Chris Padilla recommends sanding between coats, using 400 grit to achieve a smoother finish. He suggests applying 3-4 coats for optimal results.
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Tips for Lid Closure:
- Chris Padilla shares a practical tip of placing plastic wrap between the lid and the can to prevent dried residue from contaminating the finish and to ease future lid removal.
By assimilating these insights, users can enhance their understanding of applying Polycrylic by Minwax, choose suitable application methods, and achieve a desirable finish on their woodworking projects.
