How to make your own stay tape for stabilising seams (2024)
by Nita-Jane McMahon
7 Comments
What is stay tape?Basically it stabilises seams, stopping knits and curved, woven, seams from stretching. Mostlyused for necklines, armholes and shoulder seams, stay tape is so useful. Usually itisenough to hold the seam length permanently but some of this will depend on placement of seam tape. We use this for The Aeolian Tee / Dress neckline, The Celestial Dress neckline and armholes for the super light fabrics and The Terra Pant, waist seam and front pocket opening.
Itisa great alternative to doing a row of stay stitching, which can stretch your fabric just from sewing it in, or from cutting out fuseable interfacing in the shape of your pattern piece,which can get a bit tedious.
You can buy stay tapepre-made. But it is easy enough to make and you can alter the width, tape and thread weight, according to your needs.
Making stay tape
Use a light, knit or bias cut woveninterfacing,it needs to stretch.
Cut the interfacing into long strips as long as possible 8mm to 12mm wide. On the bias for woven interfacing and across the stretch for knitted interfacing.
(I have only cut short strips here to illustrate technique. Using arotary cutter makes this heaps easier.)
Sew rows of straight stitching down the lengths. Keep the rows 2-3mm from one edge. Here we have used the blind hem foot as a stitch guide, it's not necessarybut if you are sewing metres it does help with lapses of concentration.
Applying stay tape
Before cutting the length for your project give the stay tape a bit of a stretch to take out any slack.
Run the tape along the sewing lines of the pattern piece, like a measuring tape. Cut to length.
With a dry iron* press tape with the stitched linelanding just next to the garments' seam line (a guesstimation is fine).
Try to keep the tape off most of the garments seam allowance. Just cover where your seam will be sewn. Otherwise it will thicken the seam allowance making it harder to press flat.
* Steam from ironing can be enough to warp super delicate fabrics. If your fabric is growing just with minimal handling. You can trace your pattern to the fabric, press stay tape in place and then cut out the pattern piece.
Great tip! Re: the illustration where you show sewing rows of stitching before ironing the stay tape to the fabric. How many rows do you suggest? I assume the rows of stitching are to prevent it from stretching. Also, if the pattern calls for interfacing the neck and armhole facings, can you eliminate that interfacing by using this stay tape? Thanks
Debbie on Jul 15, 2018
Thank you for this post. I hadn’t heard of stay tape before and will definitely be making some to use when I make the grandchildren funky tee shirts.
Barbara on Feb 11, 2017
Thanks for sharing . Seems like a money saver also…GREAT TIP!!!!!
Juanita on Aug 26, 2016
Thank you.so much, I have been working on this project since late w/out success.
I was asked if i could made some arm rest cover for some pedicure chairs for a local salon -
I used my own made stay tape from black shape flex by pellon. I cut my stripes all 1/2 inches wide 25" long for each sidd 10" long for back end 7.5 long – tapered downward for the front end
I took my peltex template and placed on my knit fabric I place my stay tape around my temple, iron
Using my rotary cutter I cut the fabric 1/2 inch wider all around template, then folding the 1/2 inver over the stay tape.
I sew close to the inner side of seam all around.
I then add 3 to 5 rows of elastic thresd to gather the tapered front end of armrest repeat for the back. Both sides have sm corded elastic .
Thanks again Shari
Shari Martell on Oct 16, 2015
A tip that might make this easier is to sew the seam on the interfacing befor cutting it. Gives for better control and possibly be faster in the long run.
Kristi heckman on Jul 30, 2015
Brilliant! Thanks so much for this.
francesca on Jun 02, 2015
Hi—I purchased the aoelian tee pattern a few weeks ago and really love it. But I think you should promote it as a pattern for wovens as well as knits: in fact it is perfect in linen (I know, I’ve made three!). I took a cue from Blogless Anna (saw her dress on pattern review). Anyway, just a suggestion! Thanks for the pattern!
Try stay tape, a strip of knit interfacing, twill tape, clear elastic, or even the selvedges from some medium weight woven fabric. Cut two pieces of ribbon (or your chosen stabiliser) slightly longer than the shoulder seams.
Try stay tape, a strip of knit interfacing, twill tape, clear elastic, or even the selvedges from some medium weight woven fabric. Cut two pieces of ribbon (or your chosen stabiliser) slightly longer than the shoulder seams.
Polyurethane (PU) sealers such as Shoe Goo and McNett Seam Grip do seem to work fairly well on these fabrics (but not silnylon). It can be worth while thinning this stuff down with a solvent before applying it so that it can wick into the thread and holes better.
The form tape interfacing is great for replacing stay stitching step of stabilising a neckline. Quite often sewing instructions will recommend that you stay-stitch the neckline, and sometimes the arm holes, of your garments right after you cut out your fabric.
Use a light, knit or bias cut woven interfacing, it needs to stretch. Cut the interfacing into long strips as long as possible 8mm to 12mm wide. On the bias for woven interfacing and across the stretch for knitted interfacing.
Mesh Tape. Fiberglass mesh tape offers a few advantages. First, it is easy to use. Just tear a piece off the roll and lay it on a layer of wet joint compound.
I highly recommend getting your hands on some RAYON binding. It is ½” wide, will add almost no bulk to the finished garment, and irons beautifully. Whenever possible, I like to sew my seam before applying the hem tape to the raw edges of my fabric.
This sewing alternative is used to adhere fabrics together with pre-cut, double-sided strips of tape and an iron. Bonding tape is a great alternative for hems or avoiding visible stitches and the dry time that glue requires.
Interfacing and stabilizers are typically used between two layers of fabric in apparel and accessories. Stabilizers provide structure for projects like tote bags and crafts, whereas interfacing is generally used to provide more body in apparel projects like shirt collars and facings.
✂️ Stay Tape is a narrow interfacing, 1/2" (6mm) wide, and is ironed onto the wrong side of your fabric directly after cutting out your pattern. It is cut on the bias, to allow it to be flexible around curves, and has a small piece of twill tape running through the interfacing to add structure and stability.
Seam strength is proportional to thread strength, so increasing the strength of the thread you are using to sew your seams (e.g., using a heavier weight thread, or thread with stronger fibers) increases the seam strength.
As an alternative to a dedicated binder, a good sports bra with high compression can serve as a binder. Sports bras won't provide as much compression as a binder but can be a stepping stone to binding later.
Bias tape is flexible and stretchy and can be used to finish edges or seams on garments. The Sam Apron includes pattern pieces for the bias tape (6) that you can cut out along with the rest of your pattern. If you prefer, you can cut this pieces from a contrast fabric, or use pre-made bias tape instead.
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